The Bahamas, a hidden gem in the Caribbean, is finally getting the recognition it deserves. Despite the disastrous Fyre Festival that took place in Great Exuma, tourists are still flocking to this stunning island. While Nassau may be the capital and a popular tourist destination, Great Exuma offers a quieter and more laid-back experience, with its pristine white sandy beaches and delicious street food.
Upon arriving in Great Exuma, I was immediately captivated by its beauty. The turquoise seas glistened in the distance, making it clear why astronauts claim it is the most beautiful place on Earth. And let me tell you, once you set foot on the white sandy beaches, you’ll understand why. It truly is a stunning paradise.
My accommodation for the trip was Sandals Emerald Bay, and I must say, it exceeded my expectations. Instead of a soulless high-rise, I found myself in a villa-style property nestled within 500 tropical acres. Despite being fully occupied, it felt secluded and peaceful. It was the perfect place to unwind and soak in the beauty of Great Exuma.
But my adventure didn’t stop there. I had the opportunity to participate in the People-to-People program, organized by the Bahamas Ministry of Tourism. This program connects visitors with locals, providing them with an authentic and non-touristy experience. I joined a local family for dinner in their backyard, and they shared with me that this stunning view is a common sight in Exuma homes.
Great Exuma truly is a hidden paradise in the Bahamas. Its beauty is unmatched, and its charm is irresistible. So, if you’re looking for a tropical getaway that offers both relaxation and adventure, look no further than Great Exuma. You won’t be disappointed.
Crispy conch fritters are the new obsession in the Bahamas. I had the pleasure of experiencing an authentic Bahamian meal prepared by locals Katharina and Victor. The aroma was mouth-watering and the conch fritters were a culinary delicacy. We dined in their back garden, which had a stunning panoramic view of the ocean. As I explored the property, the cook’s youngest children showed me around while neighbors extended a warm welcome and shared their stories. It was an evening filled with lively conversation, laughter, and delicious seafood and rice and peas. Even the mosquitos seemed sad to see me go as the sun set on the gathering.
After a restful sleep in my room at Sandals, I embarked on a four-hour tour with Exuma Water Sports. The Seven Beaches & Moriah Marine Park tour was a must-do experience. We explored caves, coves, and some of the world’s most stunning beaches. Throughout the tour, I sipped on refreshing drinks and marveled at the exotic sea life. Our guide, Justin, even mentioned that Taylor Swift had a private party at one of the secluded beaches we passed by. It was an unforgettable adventure.
Next, we arrived at a breathtaking sandbar in the middle of the ocean. Stepping onto the pristine white sand, I felt invincible, as if I was walking on water. The view was overwhelming, with the sea stretching out before me as far as the eye could see. It was a truly magical experience.
We then journeyed to another small, nameless island in The Bahamas. After a leisurely stroll, a “secret” beach appeared. I jumped into the sea and floated through narrow caves, feeling a sense of freedom and serenity. We then sailed to Chat ‘N’ Chill bar on Stocking Island, a local favorite accessible only by boat. There, I indulged in delicious mahi-mahi fish with rice and salad, accompanied by a refreshing rum punch. It was pure heaven.
In the Bahamas, every moment is filled with adventure, delicious food, and breathtaking scenery. It’s a place where you can truly feel like a bad b***h, walking on water in the deep Caribbean sea.
Chat n’ Chill, a picturesque beach retreat in Exuma, is exactly what it sounds like. The stunning views and serene atmosphere make it the perfect getaway. And if you’re looking for some delicious food, Emerald Bay offers a variety of Asian-fusion cuisine in its 11 restaurants.
But Great Exuma has more to offer than just beautiful beaches and tasty food. One of the Sandals excursions is the Historical Sightseeing Tour, where you can explore the Pompey Memorial and Steventon Jail Ruins. Pompey, a national hero in the Bahamas, was once a slave for Lord John Rolle. In 1830, at the age of 32, he led a rebellion against his slave master, along with 43 other slaves. Although he was caught and punished, his actions prevented the separation of 77 slaves from their families. His bravery was a precursor to the emancipation of slaves in The Bahamas in 1838. Today, a memorial statue stands in front of the old jail where disobedient slaves were sent.
After the informative tour led by our knowledgeable guide, Kenneth Nixon, I visited Uncle El’s Conch Shack. This little stand, located in front of the old jail ruins, is run by Uncle El, a local food legend. He takes pride in being the best conch salad maker on the island, and after trying his fresh and appetizing treat for only £3, I can see why.
Back at Sandals, I took full advantage of the resort’s offerings. I went diving with their incredible team, enjoyed countless tropical fruit punches at their spacious bar, and savored some chicken at their jerk shack. While the meal was delicious, it didn’t quite have the same punch as jerk chicken in places like Jamaica. So, if you’re a fan of spicy food, be prepared!
With a full belly and bags packed, it was time to say goodbye to paradise and hello to Nassau, the capital city of The Bahamas.
The stunning powder-white sand casually rising in the middle of the deep ocean in Exuma. I was bracing myself for Nassau to be the total opposite of Exuma. Bahamas has a population of 415,000 and Nassau has 70% of them, plus It’s beloved by American tourists, given it’s proximity to Florida.
But despite the foot traffic there, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the place is filled with pockets of serenity at every turn. It’s where the country’s colonial past is most on display, with buildings from that era still meticulously maintained and turned into, offices and museums, including The Pompey Museum, named after Pompey, the heroic slave from Exuma.
The museum, which is only £2 to enter, is within the historic Vendue House, which was constructed before 1769 and was a marketplace until the late 1800s, where enslaved Africans were traded during the 18th and 19th centuries. Amidst colonial buildings there are coffee shops, restaurants, and designer boutiques.
Even the Bahamian skies show out when welcoming visitors flying from Exuma to Nassau.
Next, I went on a one and a half hour historic walking tour, which included the grand mansion once occupied by the abdicated King Edward VIII when he was Governor of The Bahamas in the Second World War. Nassau’s centre was pristine, by the way, with not even a stray cigarette butt insight. I also put a postcard in the famous and still-functioning post box in Parliament Street, which bears the initials of Queen Elizabeth II – its style was one of the first used in Britain in 1852. It’s believed to be the only pillar box of its kind in the Caribbean. (Two weeks later and that post card, which I forgot about, rocked up at my London flat!)
Nassau is still littered with relics of its colonial past.
Next, I headed to private Salt Cay (Blue Lagoon Island) by boat to take in the stunning scenery, a gorgeous lagoon and yet more of those white sand beaches. I relaxed my tour-weary legs at the beach before enjoying a local picnic of a delicious fish meal, washed down with the obligatory rum punch. The five-hour experience with Dolphin Encounters (again, available via Sandals) is pricey at £95, but is worth every penny.
I could move into the Sandals resort in Nassau. I made my way back to the my Nassau Sandals Royal Bahamian resort in its new villa-style section, where some suites come with their own plunge pool. There’s also access by boat to their own private island. The beach club and restaurant here is a must visit, if only for the open-air beach spa, Red Lane Spa.
You get to the spa boat from Sandals Hotel, Nassau.
A private Sandals villa in Nassau offers an affordable plunge pool experience that is simply irresistible. The incredible massage I received beforehand was the perfect preparation for what turned out to be one of the most memorable nights of my life.
Nassau, adorned in the vibrant colors of yellow, blue, and black, transformed from a relatively quiet city center into the ultimate party destination. As the clock struck 2am, the air was filled with the captivating sounds of steel pans, marching bands, drums, and booming music. The entire town came together to celebrate Junkanoo, commemorating 50 years of the country’s independence.
Junkanoo, named after the West African John Canoe Festival, originated in the Bahamas during the 17th century as a masquerade. Slaves, their faces concealed under flour paste masks, rejoiced on Boxing Day and the day after Christmas. Over time, the flour masks were replaced with more recognizable wire masks held on a stick. Today, Junkanoo has evolved into a bi-annual extravaganza that showcases the vibrant Bahamian culture.
The Junkanoo parade in Nassau is a visually stunning spectacle that captivates all who witness it. Dancers adorned in colorful costumes lead the way, accompanied by a lively procession of musicians. The energy and enthusiasm of the locals and visitors alike create an electric atmosphere that is impossible to resist. I found myself joining in the festivities, my hips gyrating, arms flailing, and head bopping to the infectious rhythm of the street party.
This annual event, comparable to the grandeur of the Rio Carnival, was the perfect conclusion to my time on the island. The Bahamas certainly lives up to its reputation, far from the chaos of the ill-fated Fyre Festival.
Travel Information:
To reach Nassau, The Bahamas, British Airways offers flights from Heathrow starting at £711 for a return ticket. For those looking to explore more of the Bahamas, return flights between Nassau and Exuma are available with bahamasair (£191) and Western Air (£179).
For a luxurious stay, consider booking three nights at Sandals Emerald Bay, Great Exuma in a Beach House Grande Luxe Walkout Club Level Room, followed by four nights at Sandals Royal Bahamian, Nassau in an East Bay Zen Garden Room. This package starts from £2,789 per person and includes seven nights of all-inclusive accommodation, Club Sandals Concierge Service at Sandals Emerald Bay, return economy class flights with British Airways, inter-island flights with Bahamasair, and in-resort airport transfers. As an added bonus, you can enjoy an extra £200 off per booking with Sandals Annual Sale by quoting promo code ‘SALE’ before May 14, 2024. This offer is valid for travel on select dates in September 2024 and is subject to availability. Visit the Sandals website for more information.
